WOOL & WAX

Provenance

The roots of authentic Guernsey or Gansey sweaters, practical working garments of fishermen and seafarers, can be traced back to late 1800’s Britain. Their initial origins being from the islands of Guernsey and neighboring Jersey, between the coasts of England and France. As the islands names suggest, both are steeped in clothing history, in particular the spinning of worsted yarn.

The garments through fit, yarn and detail are an original lesson in form and functionality. Almost skin tight to trap warmth as close to the body as possible, their sleeves were knit short to avoid being caught in equipment as the men worked at sea, neck openings were symmetrical front to back allowing the garment to be turned around when heavily worn at the front and the elbows. The 5 ply worsted yarn, whose natural oils, tight knitting and the dirt accumulated over time, combined with its seamless 5 needle circular construction gave natural protection from the sea and the wind. The natural fibres, known as seamens iron, still allowed the garment and the wearers body to breath on top of the insulation it provided.  Cuffs were often unraveled and then re-knit when they become worn, it was not uncommon to see garments with different shades of navy where the original had faded and met with the new. An underarm gusset in a low set armhole allowed for greater range of movement while working and knit gussets also featured at the sides of the neck to facilitate putting on and taking off the tight fitting garments.

The patterns of the sweaters varied much like Arans, to denote the village or even family that the fishermen was from, a badge of home pride and under less fortunate circumstances an identification system that could allow drowned men found at sea to be returned to their home ports for burial. Patterns across the chest also provided extra insulation from the elements. The signature details around the armhole signified the wearers trade - the ribbing depicted the ladders of their boats and waves and the raised seam at the shoulder signified the ropes from their nets.

The classic garments continued to be worn functionally at sea by everyone from explorers to yachtsmen well into the 1960’s, and indeed can still be seen worn more casually by sailors of today, who’s classic nautical tastes perhaps eschew more modern fabrications, despite their improved functionality and comfort!